Canada Tough Country Hiking Challenge


In Aid Of MacMillan Cancer Relief

In June of 1999 Travelling People (the group I used to sing & play with) staged a benefit concert to support my father who was raising money for Macmillan Cancer Relief. At the grand old age of 72 he carried out a 100km trek in the Canadian Rockies and this is the account of his trip...


Dear Friend

I promised to write and tell you when I had completed the Challenge. This finally took place in September instead of the first mooted July and I am now back, somewhat exhausted, very pleased to have completed an arduous trek, and highly elated at the level of support and sponsorship which has been, and still is forthcoming.

First I must say a very big thank you to all of you. Your contributions in one form or another mean that with the pledges yet to be honoured I shall have passed on to Macmillan Cancer Relief the incredible total of over £7000. When I consider that I thought the mandatory target of £2500 was unlikely to be achieved you will understand how gratified I am to have done so much better.

Now, as to the Challenge, it was intended to be hard and hard it was, even for the fully fit and more experienced. For lesser mortals (such as me) it was quite daunting and a continuous struggle against the terrain and the elements. For each member of the group the challenge was different and depended on such things as the limitations of age, fitness, mental attitude, outdoor experience, or even the ability to mix happily in a varied group of strangers. AII in all it meant that the six days of the actual expedition were at times quite stressful and a long, long way from being the relaxing holiday which some folk jokingly implied would be the case. Over 100km as measured on the map plus some 10,000ft of ascent during the journey indicates the degree of effort put in to justify the faith of our sponsors.

We assembled at Gatwick on September 2nd and met the 63 other members of our party together with some of the Discover Adventure leaders (Greg & Jim) and Elizabeth the Macmillan representative. What is there to say about an 11 hour flight to Vancouver with a stop off at Calgary except thank goodness its over! I suppose I could add that it must have seemed odd to the other passengers and cabin crew to witness the 'icebreaking' as the Macmillan mob kept wandering up and down chatting in the 'getting to know you' process. At Vancouver we met Darren and Doc Matt, the other Team leaders and then transferred to our hotel near the airport after first being taken to the wrong one! We then played 'Musical Rooms' while the pairings and room suitability were sorted. Evening meal followed plus more 'getting to know you' with drink in hand.

Next morning, up early for breakfast, a briefing, loading the coaches and off for a nine hour drive, initially along the Sea to Sky Highway, to Whistler, Pemberton and Lilloet and finally to the tiny settlement of Gold Bridge where the Menhinnick Ranch was located. The latter part of this journey was some 80 miles along a largely uninhabited river valley and along a mostly unsurfaced road. We were now truly on the edge of the wilderness with glorious mountain scenery all round. The ranch is a base for hiking, horse riding and skiing expeditions in the Chilcotin Mountains. After instruction we all set to and pitched the small hike tents which would be our 'homes' for the next six days and sorted our gear. By this time evening shadows were falling and the call for dinner came. Generally speaking meals were taken standing up as seating was limited. After a session around the big campfire (no shortage of timber here) it was time for bed. A first night under canvas for some.

After a not too cold night we breakfasted having struck the tents and packed our kit. The day's journey to Camp 2 at Eldorado was a steady, mainly unrelenting uphill plod through the forest paths of Pearsons Creek. Eventually we reached more open country going over a high pass with snow about. From here we descended below the tree line again to reach the campsite. It was a long hard day and a tough introduction to this wonderful country. The day's walk was 15km with 1180 m of ascent starting at 800m. With a party of our size there was a lot of gear to be transported which was why tents and personal gear had needed to be ready before breakfast to facilitate the loading of the horses.

These were then formed into three pack trains which set off at intervals and overtook us during the day. The system did not always work and there were times when we had to wait for tents or gear to set up camp - not good if it was raining! Anyway, this time we were 0K and after the tent pitching routine we gathered round the fire to await evening meal. It was something of a wet night coupled with a serious drop in temperature when the rain stopped. A lot of people were on a steep learning curve regarding mountain camping.

I should explain now that the original itinerary of moving camp each day was deemed impractical because the large numbers involved placed too heavy a burden on the support team. An additional complication was that a bridge on the planned route was unusable. Therefore, we would spend 2 nights at each of 2 bases. This did not reduce the effort involved. In fact it meant that we did more walking and less tent striking/pitching and packing/unpacking kit.

Morning showed a heavy frost and new snow on the hills. Some folk were disturbed by the sound of prowling bears (not me, I sleep too well). Off after breakfast on an undulating but steadily c1imbing walk through forest and alpine meadows to Eldorado Mountain. About half the party ascended this peak (2448m/8029') which probably involved an extra 1500' of ascent and 5km distance to the day. The panoramic views in good weather were suitable reward. The remainder of the day was a long up and down walk across moor and through forest back to camp. The distance (without mountain) was some 16km with 900m ascent and descent. The c1imbers were very late back and more than a little tired. The night was again somewhat damp and very cold.

Our two nights at Eldorado completed we were up early to frozen tents and fresh snow on the mountains again. Tents were struck and kit packed before a welcome breakfast. Food was always good and plentiful even if a bit basic. Did we tough pioneers complain? Of course not, the open air life promotes appetites. Today was the day we upset the horses with our morning exercise routine. This was supposedly to warm up cold muscles. It made mine ache before I started! Today's destination was the northern end of Spruce Lake, which involved 15km of distance walked, and 500m ascent and then descent. The high point was the aptly named Windy Gap where we lunched in glorious sunshine and took in the magnificent views of the local peaks, such as Castle Mountain together with the distant panorama of the snow-capped Shulaps range. It was at Windy Gap that one of the horses panicked, fell over, lost its load and caused a general furore. However, no serious damage was done and normal service was resumed. Reluctant though we were to move on, after the long sweat of the morning, we enjoyed the equally long but less strenuous hike to Spruce Lake Camp. Here it was necessary to hump extra supplies from the float plane jetty to the camp (a 25 minute walk). Here too the camping 'field' was a long walk from the main camp area down a treacherous muddy trail. Very dodgy in the dark. A very wet night followed.

Next morning fresh bear tracks were in evidence. The previous days having been very strenuous, today we were offered the choice of a 6 hour walk (20km + 300m up and down) to Hummingbird Lake or a morning walk around Spruce Lake with an afternoon exploration of the local hills which were rich with fossils. The group divided about 50-50. Each trip was enjoyable as the surroundings continued to amaze and delight the senses. The energetic satisfied their desire to see a bit more of the original itinerary while the remainder took the opportunity to recover a little while keeping keep the muscles active in readiness for the next stage. This was the first day that we actually had some 'personal time' to relax slightly which was very welcome.

After a pleasant day the evening brought rain again which continued through most of the night. When it stopped the temperature dropped severely. Happy were those who knew how to keep warm! A frozen world awaited our early waking with tents iced up and the snowline not far above us. With tents and kit packed we breakfasted at 7.00am. This was followed by a carry of surplus supplies to the float plane jetty. This was really hard as we were dressed against the cold and carrying our daysacs which were quite heavy. It turned out to be a long, long day, albeit the general way was downhill it still involved a lot of ups and downs in circumventing side valleys to the main valley of Gun Creek.

Eventually we arrived at Jewel Bridge which was the forestry roadhead. Here, the packhorses were unloaded and the kit and saddlery, etc. loaded onto a truck. Some of the party undertook this heavy work and travelled, eventually, back to the Ranch (a bear was seen on the way). The bulk of the trekkers followed the trail on the opposite side of the river which led back to the Ranch. All in all the maximum distance covered that day was 30km and it was nearly dark by the time the last of the party arrived.

In the spirit of the comradeship which had developed the late arrivals found their tents pitched and waiting. As the support crew had also had a long and arduous day coping with temperamental horses it was a late but welcome dinner. After this the support team (wranglers and families) accompanied by a number of the trekkers piled into the high sided truck (a bit like cattle) and repaired to a convenient hostelry for a spot of serious relaxation.

After a not so cold but somewhat damp night we rose to a later breakfast and had a final morning walk round Pearson Lake to enjoy the stunning scenery, the sight of a beaver dam and the quietness of this beautiful place on the edge of the wilderness.

Barry and his family and friends had really taken us in to their circle during our time with them, which resulted in a rather emotional thank you and leave taking ceremony.

We then departed back along this remote Gold Bridge valley to the main highway back to Vancouver. Regretfully the weather seriously deteriorated and it was roadside to roadside rain the whole 7 hours of the way back. What a pleasure to exchange the primitive ablution and sanitation facilities of the wilderness for modern hotel luxury! After a meal out it was time for a relaxing beer and so to bed.

Sunday 9th September arrived damp and dismal which spoilt the first few hours of sightseeing. However, about noon the sun peeked through and Vancouver became its normal pleasant self Much enjoyed by all. In the evening we indulged in a celebration meal and presentations were made. Congratulations were in order for the participants who had completed an arduous trek with fortitude and without complaint.

Monday allowed an hour or two for last minute wandering and shopping before the call to board coaches for the airport, suffer the formalities of modern day air travel and in due time commence the long haul home to Gatwick. There of course the parting of the ways as the companionship of a shared task drew to a close. We may not see many of these Macmillan trekkers again but surely we shall never forget them. The ready friendship offered, the helping hand so freely given, the word of encouragement at a crucial moment, these are the memories and the unsought benefit of the trip. More importantly of course is the shared and satisfying knowledge that all of us set out to do something for the good of those less fortunate than ourselves. No further reward is necessary.

Yours sincerely,

John Ashe. 


If you have enjoyed reading this account and wish to contact my father then please send him an e-mail.